Category: Maps

Maps, The Louvre and Palais Royal

Here Comes Joannie! Part Two

mwalesh

15 rue de Richeleau 75001

*if you haven’t read part one, I insist you stop here and go back to the previous post.. For everyone else, fix yourself an Old Fashion because this is a long one.. . .

One of the big reasons I created this page was to bring attention to the endless number of significant historical landmarks that can easily be found around Paris for anyone to see. If you know where to look …

Many of these are marked with plaques that explain the significance of the site: however many more are not marked at all, or they aren’t easily accessible. These are the ones that fascinate me. After 8 years in Paris and many hours spent browsing dusty books in libraries or late nights online, anything labeled “Paris Secret/Unknown/Mysterious” catches my eye. But rarely am I surprised now adays. Until I came across an online article that caught my attention. It was titled “Mosaïque de Jeanne d’Arc blessée au 15 rue de Richelieu” (Mosaïque of Joan of Arc hurt at 15 rue de Richeleau). This article claimed that at precisely this address in the 1st arrondissement of Paris, Joan was severely injured during the battle of Paris on Thursday the 8th of September 1429.

The images from Montjoye.net

Let me explain.. After Joan did Charles VII a huge solid by crowning him at Reims (this was significant because there was some controversy over his lineage and his right to ascend the throne. His own mother threw him under the bus and claimed he was a bastard and not the legitimate son of his crazy father King Charles VI. Ouch) Joan had her sights set on liberating Paris, which had been controlled by the English for nearly 9 years.

Joan of Arc at the Coronation of Charles VII in Reims Cathedral by Władysław Bakalowicz

Unfortunately for her, King Charles (thanks to JOA) found his support for Joan weakening. Having gotten his crown and newfound support of the French people (again thanks to JOA for leading all those successful battles!) he just wasn’t motivated to hurry himself along and regain Paris under French rule. So he half-heartedly allowed Joan to take an army into Paris to see what she could do. Things were looking good as she conquered Saint Denis north of Paris and then marched her soldiers towards the western side of Paris at the Porte Saint Honoré (there was the defensive wall of Charles V circling Paris at this time, and these portes/entrance ways were heavily defended. To even have a chance at conquering Paris, Joan and her army needed to infiltrate this entryway), which was protected by a badass moat and ditches. There was even a pig market nearby, but more on that later.

Joan and The Seige of Paris

The battle began poorly; the soldiers just couldn’t manage to get over the GOD DAMN WALL into Paris. They fought fiercely from dawn to dusk when suddenly Joan took a god damn arrow (from a fricken crossbow!) to the thigh. It brought her down but it wasn’t enough to make her give up and call it a day. She screamed for her men to continue, to get over the wall, to continue their assault- but she was forcibly carried from the field as her weary men retreated.

In short, Joan of Arc never actually entered Paris. And you know the rest.. Today in Paris, you can still see testimonials of the 8th of September 1429. At Place des Pyramids, just a few steps from the Louvre at 161 rue Saint Honoré, you can see the face of Joan looking down at you from above.

The inscription below her reads “Here was the Porte Saint Honoré, near to which Joan of Arc was injured in 1429”. There is another larger, grander, golden statue of Joan mounted on a horse nearby between the Louvre and the Jardin des Tuilleries.

But these two markers do not show the EXACT place where Joan was injured. And that is what I was curious to see. Because according to this website, in May of 1987, students from the nearby school Jean Baptiste Poquelin and the mayor of the 1st arrondissement, inaugurated a beautiful Mosaic depicting Joan during her attempt to take Paris near the now long gone Porte Saint Honoré. This was created by the students of the school with the help of their principal and arts teacher.

The Mosaic hidden at 15 rue de Richeleau, image from Montejoye.net

Numerous historians confirmed that this was the actual exact place where Joan was injured based upon eye witness testimony that has been recorded and kept throughout the past 600 years. A significant point between several testimonials was that Joan was injured not at the porte Saint Honoré itself, but rather 100 meters or so off to the side between the pig market and a trench that was at the base of the fortified wall. Check out the pictures of the maps I have for comparison.

The Porte Saint Honoré and the defensive wall that surrounded Paris. The pig market where Joan fell is encirlced.

So off I went to go find this historically significant mosaic, which was situated in the courtyard of an apartment building according to the article. Which brought me my first challenge. GETTING IN! (You need a code to access most Paris buildings that is entered on a keypad next to the door) I waited at the door on the street for about 20 long minutes for someone to either leave or enter with the door code- so that I could get access. Finally the door opened, and I walked in, feeling exhilarated to see this mosaic, this historic moment in time, and the great article I was going to share with you. The only problem was- there was.. nothing. No mosaic! STAY TUNED AND TURNT UP FOR PART 3

  • What I saw..
  • What the website showed..

Maps, The Louvre and Palais Royal

Here Comes Joannie! Part One

mwalesh

What you are about to read is a retelling of my first major Paris History Mystery and the forgotten Paris landmark that no one seemed to know was missing.. Until me!

It’s a bit of a long tale so I’m cutting it into 4 parts. Today I’m going to introduce you to the woman behind the legend. JOAN.OF.MOTHERFUCKING.ARC! The more I research her, the more intrigued I am to understand this woman, this teenager- who rose from nothing and yet found herself at the head of an army with a king at her shoulder and saints at her back, all before her cruel demise at the age of 19. (What were you doing at 19? I’m pretty sure I was still stealing my parents booze to go get drunk and passout in cornfields with my friends)

What do you know of Joan? In part 1 of this series, I will give you my unique version of her unofficial biography. Let’s go back to Domrémy, France in the year 1412. (608 YEARS AGO MY FRIENDS) Domrémy is in the middle of Buttfuck, France; about 4 hours by car north east of Paris. A girl is born to a farmer and his wife during the time known as the 100 Years War, when England and France brutally fought for control of the Kingdom of France.

VIews of where Joan was born in Domrémy

We all know medieval wartime Europe was bleak AF, and this was especially true for this region of France, which was just SHIT UPON by the English. Les anglais were big fans of the warfare tactic known as Chevauchée; which basically consisted of PILAGING, BURNING, and RAPING anything and anyone that came into their paths without pity or remorse. The French people were in such dire straights already; the plague had just nearly polished off a whole generation of people and their sovereign, King Charles VI was bat shit bananas. (Or paranoid schizophrenic).

King Charles VI, from the illuminated manuscript of Maître de la Mazarine, 1411

But there had been a prophecy floating around that a savoir, in the form of a virgin in original factory condition, from the borders of Lorraine, (DOMREMY DOMREMY) would save France from the English. Here comes JOANNIE!

Joan claimed to have had her first visions in 1425 in her father’s garden. She said she spoke with 3 angels; Saint Margaret, Saint Catherine, and TOP CHEF BOSS ANGEL Saint Michael, who told her she had been chosen by GOD to drive out the English from France, bring Charles VII (son of looney King Charles VI) to Reims to be crowned, and accompany Jimmy Buffet on backup vocals during his last “It’s 5 o’clock somewhere” World Wide Tour before he kicks the bucket. God loves margaritas!

Joan of Arc Under the Guard of Angels, Dom Meunier

Without going into too much detail about her campaign, this peasant girl was able to gather followers, get an audience with the king, convince the king she was the real deal, convince the whole army she was the real deal, and then lead them through varies victories where they did not have the upper hand, all while sporting a really butch lookin’ bob hair cut. To top it all off, she brought Charles VII to Reims and put a crown on his head like the boss bitch that she was.

Depiction at the Domrémy Basilica of the crowning of King Charles VII in the presence of Joan

Unfortunately that was about where she peaked, and despite begging Charlie to follow God/her advice, she lost favor with the king and was eventually sold out to the English who put her on trial for a variety of bullshit charges (one of which was cross dressing). Joan was barely 19 when she was burned at the stake in Rouen, 30 May 1431. Reading about Joan, I found myself wondering how she could have accomplished so much given her limited background.

Let this sink in; Joan was an illiterate peasant girl who grow up on a farm- she had no books or Instagram to put silly ideas into her delicate little female head. Whether she saw angels or not, there was something extraordinary pushing Joan to get to the head of the French army. She learned to fight while wearing armor, ride a horse, command soldiers, and somehow convince an army of men to follow her (forbidding them to swear, be intoxicated, and sleep with hookers) and BELIEVE in her and her mission. She was wounded by a GOD DAMN crossbow during the battle of Les Tourelles and she literally pulled the arrow out of her thigh and WENT BACK TO FIGHT hours later!

Was she guided by angels? I don’t know but I believe 100% that SHE knew herself to be under their influence. In part 2 I’ll talk more about Joan and the Siege of Paris and I’ll reveal what mysterious landmark is hidden behind the door at 15 rue Richelieu in the heart of Paris.. stay tuned!

Here Comes Joannie! Part Two

Discover the secret courtyard that marks the exact location where Joan of Arc was injured during the Siege of Paris

Maps, Saint Germain des Près and the Eiffel Tower

Here Fell… Jacques Guierre

mwalesh

Odeon Theater, Paris 75006

This memorial plaque marks the spot where Jacques Guierre was shot. It reads “on August 25th, 1944 here fell Jacques Guierre, 20 years old and a student. FFI* who died for France.” In charge of keeping watch over the area of the nearby Luxembourg Gardens, Jacques was shot by a rooftop sniper at 13h40 as he was leaving a nearby café where he had just ate lunch.

In the book “Ici est Tombé” we meet Anne Marie Beau, who met Jacques through her best friend Odette, his sister. She describes how she never had a romantic relationship with him, but its very obvious she loved him. Anne Marie was 18 in the spring of 1944 and looking back at her letters to her parents from that time, they all revolved around Jacques and the time they spent together discussing literature, art, and going to the theater.

She remarks how she doesn’t believe they ever spoke of the German occupation or fear of bombing. Jacques lived with his uncle in a tiny apartment on the rue Lhomond in the 5th and he wasn’t elegant or interested in typical beauty. She says he often wore his Uncle or brother’s drabby hand me downs. He was an artist, and she fondly recalls him showing her his watercolors. They lost contact after Easter and she later discovered he was in love with another young lady so she didn’t reach out to him. She learned of his death from his sister Odette and she remembers crying a lot after. She finds it fitting that he loved the theater, and he died in front of one.

Anne Marie Beau and her memories of Jacques

Taken from “Ici est Tombé : Paroles sur la Liberation de Paris“ Philippe Castetbon, 2004 https://www.amazon.fr/Ici-est-tomb%C3%A9-Paroles-Lib%C3%A9ration/dp/2915293112

*FFI stood for Forces françaises de l’intérieur and was the official name given to French Resistance fighters.

Maps, Montmartre and Pigalle

Uprooted Montmartre History

mwalesh

As if there isn’t enough death and disappointment in the world today, the City of Paris made the unfortunate call to recently raze a glorious Wisteria tree that has been cherished by the locals of Montmartre for more than 100 years. I was just here a few weeks ago with my daughter, who was probably one of the last to take a seat on the gnarly trunk before it was so cruelly torn up.

Gracing the Place du Calvaire just around the corner from Place du Tetre and in the shadow of the imposing Sacre Coeur Basilica, this tree seems to have grown its’ roots into the hill and hearts of Montmartre residents over the years.

The tree before, and now …

Outraged to see its longstanding life literally cut short with no notice at an already precarious time, locals continue the battle to contain the spirit of the past as modernity creeps in. Yet despite the tourist hoards that roam the cobblestoned hilly streets in search of scenes from Amélie, Montmartre continues to be beloved for the same old school countryside appeal that once attracted artists like Picasso and Modigliani.

SHAME!

There seems to be controversy between city officials who claim the tree was dead after work was done around the tree last year and locals who claim the tree may have been damaged, but surely could not have been a lost cause since it had already begun to bloom. Even the owner of Chez Plumeau , (the restaurant where the tree stood) claims he was certain the tree was starting to recently bloom when he was alerted to what was happening on March 17th by a neighbor. He rushed over to find the iconic tree already uprooted and his terrace now lacking what used to be an immense budding centerpiece. Meanwhile, as several associations like Montmartre Addict are fighting back against this injustice to both history and nature- the city of Paris has promised to replant a new tree, who will undoubtedly have some illustrious roots to grow into.

Maps, Montmartre and Pigalle

The Holy Hotel of Sacre Coeur

mwalesh

Basilique du Sacré-Cœur de Montmartre 75018 Paris

Last spring, I spent the night at the Basilica of Sacré Coeur, doing what I consider to be one of the best kept secrets of the city. Did you know this was possible? You won’t find it in any hotel guide book or on Air-Bnb, but tucked behind the massive white dome at the top of Montmartre is the Ephrem Hotel. That’s right, a spiritual one night journey in the iconic Sacre Coeur Basilica!

The Ephrem Hotel

There are two room options. Team Socially Righteous or Chaste&Chatty can reserve a bed in a semi private single sex dorm for 6€. Those who prefer feeling more like an isolated silent monk can opt for a private suite for 20€. You can even request a room to share with a roommate or family if you don’t intend on breaking the 5th commandment.

I was feeling anti-social so I opted for the single room

The catch? You need to commit to being present in the Basilica for just one hour throughout the night, from 10:30pm when they kick out the general public until the reopening at 6am. There is a Compline at 9:30 (which was like a light show, the Sister who checked me in said I must see it. I had no regrets, it was stunning) followed by a mass, but this is not obligatory to attend. Why is this possible?

Because of a 135 year-old living prayer chain that since 1885, has NEVER been broken. Your participation in the Night Adoration ensures that this relay of prayer is continuous. 24 hours a day, 7 days a week, 365 days a year, pandemic or not- there is SOMEONE in this basilica keeping the Adoration chain going.

Photo of the interior by Jon Berghoff

The idea is to pray in silence, (maybe attract an apparition or two if you are feeling extra divine) but there are no rules or restrictions to interpret HOW you spend this hour. No Rosary Wielding Warrior of God will be using her holy laser beans to burn out your eyeballs if you aren’t deemed pious enough. In fact, I found the staff to be really friendly. One Sister had such an warm smile that I felt comfortable enough to ask her if she referred to God as “tu” or the more formal “vous” when she prayed. She laughed out loud at my timid question and told me she preferred the more friendly form of “you”.

Feeling holy, will probably delete later

Whether you pray to a Catholic God or another, if you choose to meditate or reflect on yourself- that hour is what you make it to be. As long as you are silent and don’t pull a Judas by throwing Jesus under the bus or anything, you will be welcomed. Anyone can do this. Residents of Paris or visitors. Families or alone. I admit I was a bit nervous about this experience. I had visions of merciless nuns interrogating me on the bible or forcing me to wear a hair shirt and do penance for my sinful ways. But in fact, no one really seemed to care and I was really surprised at the freedom I had in the 2nd most visited monument in Paris.

Obligatory selfie before Basilica sleepover

I was one of the last to arrive before they closed the doors at 9:30 so I chose 6am-7pm as my time slot and I opted for a private room which was simple, yet surprisingly clean and cozy. Having stayed in some sketchy hostel dorms in my day (here’s looking at you Naples) I was really impressed with how spotless everything was. Cleanliness is next to Godliness amiright? I’m not an especially religious person, but that hour I spent in the darkness before dawn, accompanied only by the glow of candles and the howling wind beyond the impenetrable stone walls, was one I won’t forget. Nothing brings you closer to whatever form of spirituality you believe in then the sound of silence in such an immensely comprehensive space.

This isn’t for everyone, but if you are like me and always looking for new experiences and might be interested in spending a special and very peaceful night in this world famous Basilica, I urge you to check out the Sacré Coeur website below where you will find information on participating in the Night Adoration. Its very easy to register and you can reserve the type of room you want to sleep in 48 hours in advance.

*I apologize for lack of pictures. I admit to using the Lord’s name in Vain more than I should, but I didn’t want to be disrespectful in such a peaceful environment.

**A simple breakfast is also available too for 4€ but not an option at the moment with co-vid unfortunately.

La nuit d’adoration (sacre-coeur-montmartre.com)