As if there isn’t enough death and disappointment in the world today, the City of Paris made the unfortunate call to recently raze a glorious Wisteria tree that has been cherished by the locals of Montmartre for more than 100 years. I was just here a few weeks ago with my daughter, who was probably one of the last to take a seat on the gnarly trunk before it was so cruelly torn up.
Gracing the Place du Calvaire just around the corner from Place du Tetre and in the shadow of the imposing Sacre Coeur Basilica, this tree seems to have grown its’ roots into the hill and hearts of Montmartre residents over the years.
There seems to be controversy between city officials who claim the tree was dead after work was done around the tree last year and locals who claim the tree may have been damaged, but surely could not have been a lost cause since it had already begun to bloom. Even the owner of Chez Plumeau , (the restaurant where the tree stood) claims he was certain the tree was starting to recently bloom when he was alerted to what was happening on March 17th by a neighbor. He rushed over to find the iconic tree already uprooted and his terrace now lacking what used to be an immense budding centerpiece. Meanwhile, as several associations like Montmartre Addict are fighting back against this injustice to both history and nature- the city of Paris has promised to replant a new tree, who will undoubtedly have some illustrious roots to grow into.
There are two room options. Team Socially Righteous or Chaste&Chatty can reserve a bed in a semi private single sex dorm for 6€. Those who prefer feeling more like an isolated silent monk can opt for a private suite for 20€. You can even request a room to share with a roommate or family if you don’t intend on breaking the 5th commandment.
I was feeling anti-social so I opted for the single room
The catch? You need to commit to being present in the Basilica for just one hour throughout the night, from 10:30pm when they kick out the general public until the reopening at 6am. There is a Compline at 9:30 (which was like a light show, the Sister who checked me in said I must see it. I had no regrets, it was stunning) followed by a mass, but this is not obligatory to attend. Why is this possible?
Because of a 135 year-old living prayer chain that since 1885, has NEVER been broken. Your participation in the Night Adoration ensures that this relay of prayer is continuous. 24 hours a day, 7 days a week, 365 days a year, pandemic or not- there is SOMEONE in this basilica keeping the Adoration chain going.
Photo of the interior by Jon Berghoff
The idea is to pray in silence, (maybe attract an apparition or two if you are feeling extra divine) but there are no rules or restrictions to interpret HOW you spend this hour. No Rosary Wielding Warrior of God will be using her holy laser beans to burn out your eyeballs if you aren’t deemed pious enough. In fact, I found the staff to be really friendly. One Sister had such an warm smile that I felt comfortable enough to ask her if she referred to God as “tu” or the more formal “vous” when she prayed. She laughed out loud at my timid question and told me she preferred the more friendly form of “you”.
Feeling holy, will probably delete later
Whether you pray to a Catholic God or another, if you choose to meditate or reflect on yourself- that hour is what you make it to be. As long as you are silent and don’t pull a Judas by throwing Jesus under the bus or anything, you will be welcomed. Anyone can do this. Residents of Paris or visitors. Families or alone. I admit I was a bit nervous about this experience. I had visions of merciless nuns interrogating me on the bible or forcing me to wear a hair shirt and do penance for my sinful ways. But in fact, no one really seemed to care and I was really surprised at the freedom I had in the 2nd most visited monument in Paris.
Obligatory selfie before Basilica sleepover
I was one of the last to arrive before they closed the doors at 9:30 so I chose 6am-7pm as my time slot and I opted for a private room which was simple, yet surprisingly clean and cozy. Having stayed in some sketchy hostel dorms in my day (here’s looking at you Naples) I was really impressed with how spotless everything was. Cleanliness is next to Godliness amiright? I’m not an especially religious person, but that hour I spent in the darkness before dawn, accompanied only by the glow of candles and the howling wind beyond the impenetrable stone walls, was one I won’t forget. Nothing brings you closer to whatever form of spirituality you believe in then the sound of silence in such an immensely comprehensive space.
*I apologize for lack of pictures. I admit to using the Lord’s name in Vain more than I should, but I didn’t want to be disrespectful in such a peaceful environment.
**A simple breakfast is also available too for 4€ but not an option at the moment with co-vid unfortunately.
Paris History of our Streets 